Embroidered flounced fabric



(No Model.) 8 Sh t L' LOEB Jr. ee s Sheet 1 EMBROIDERED ELOUNOED FABRIC.

Patented June 1'7, 1890.

.......n-m..4|]1.................vr

nnnnnmmummmmmumuul WIM/8858:

ATTORNEYS.

ma mams versus coA, vnuwmwo., wsmmarzm. n4 c.

(No Model.) L LOEB Jr 8 Sheets-Sheet 2.

l y l EMBROIDERED FLOUNGED FABRIC.

Patented June 17, 1890.

ATTR/VEYS.

.www.....u-...n-n..."

m u n n M m /l m m n n u m m m n m n m "mi Nonms paens co., Pnoaumo.,wAsnlNGroN, n. c.

(N0 Model.) L 3 ShGBtS-Sheet 3.

l l l EMBROIDERED PLOUNED FABRIC.

Patented June 17, 1890.

Tru: cams versus co Paura-umu., wsnwman, n. c.

NITED STATES ATENT OFFICE.

Louis Lone, JR., oF RoRsoHAoH, SWITZERLAND.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 430,347, dated J une17, 1890.

Application filed August l, 1889.

To all whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, LOUIS LOEB, Jr., a subject of the Emperor ofGermany, residing at Rorschach, Switzerland, have invented a new andImproved Embroidered Flounced Fabric, of which the following is a full,clear, and exact description.

My invention relates to an embroidered flounced fabric intended for usemore particularly in garments for ladies or childrens wear, and made asmuslins, cambrics,woolens, silks, &c.; and the object of the inventionis to provide an improved fabric of this class as a new article ofmanufacture, having one or more iiounces formed with an embroidered freeedge and capable of production in any desired form or pattern withoutrequiring the main piece of material to be made longer or wider than thefinished fiounced fabric, while the flounces will be safe againstdetachment or ripping olf by wear or washing of the fabric.

The invention consists in certain features of novelty in the embroideredflounced fabric, as hereinafter described and claimed.

Reference is to be had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part ofthis specification, in which similar letters of reference indicatecorresponding` parts in all the figures.

Figure l is a front View of a piece of main fabric with a backing fabriclaid behind it, the front or main fabric being embroidered in a mannernecessary to produce series of ounces of various forms or patterns afterthe two materials or fabrics are connected together, preferably byembroiderystitches, and the front material is partly cut away. Fig. 2 isa front View of the two fabrics connected by stitches or lines ofembroideryavith the front material partly cut away or removed to allowthe flounces to hang free from their main lines of connection. Fig. 3 isa back View of the finished fiounced fabric. Fig. 4 is a cross-sectionof the main and backing fabrics, taken on the line a; x in Fig. l, orbefore they are connected. Fig. 5is a cross-section of the finishedfiounced fabric taken on the line y y in Fig. 2. Fig. 6 is a front Viewof an embroidered ounced fabric, in which the lines ofembroidery-stitches produced between two opposing lines of iiounces forma pocket between the two materials of the Vfinished fabric .to receive acolored ribbon-forinstance, to display to better advantage the open-workembroidered patterns on the front material forming one side of saidpocket; and Fig. 7 is adeta-il sectional View illustrating how theflounce may by the use of two or more backing-pieces be made of two ormore thicknesses to give it increased body or stiffness.

My improved embroidered lounced fabric consists of a main fabric A and abacking or 'foundation piece or fabric B, connected thereto in apeculiar manner and preferably by embroidery-stitches, the frontmaterial being cut away between certain lines of embroidery connectingthe two fabrics to allow the finished embroidered flounce to hang orproject, as hereinafter more fully explained.

The nlain fabric A, on which fiounces of straight, angular, round, orother general form may be produced, is or may be left entirely plainwhere the flounces are not formed, or the main fabric l may beembroidered at a above or below the flounce or series of liounces. Thebacking pieces or strips B, of which there may be any desired numberhaving any required width, are placed behind the main fabric. Onto themain fabric A are worked oneor more lines of embroidery of any requiredcontour, extent, or direction, and this embroidery makes a finish at thefree edges of the llounces of the completed fabric. For instance, thefinely-scalloped line of embroidery c afterward forms the lower freeedge of the flounce C of the finished fabric, the an- -gularly-disposedlines of embroidery d,worked below the embroidery c, afterward form themarginal free edges of the 'series of angularinclined fiounces D, thefinely-scalloped line of embroidery e afterward forms the free edge ofthe wide straight-face embroidered iiounce E, the circular-scallopedlines of embroidery f afterward form the marginal free edges of theseries of circular flounces F, and the wavy lines of embroidery gafterward form the free edges of a series of large scalloped flounces Gof the completed fabric.

Vhether the main fabric A be embroiderd at a or be left plain where theflounces are on one fabric and certain lines of embroidery IOO not to beproduced on it, those portions of said fabric may be embroidered atplaces afterward within the marginal edges of theflounces, or betweensaid edges and the lines or places of connection whence the iounce hangsor projects. For instance, a series of dots d are worked next theembroidery d, a complete flower-pattern e is worked next the embroideryc, and a series of dots g are worked next the embroidery g.Embroidery-patterns may also be lworked on the main fabric at the centerof flounces, of round or square or oval configuration, as instanced bythe flower or leaf pattern f', worked at the center of the circularlines or figures of embroidery f. It will be understood that all theabove-named lines of embroidery c, d d', e e,ff, and g g', and also theembroidery a, when desired, are worked on or in the main fabric A beforethe backing fabric B is connected to it by lines of stitches, andpreferably by embroidering the two fabrics A B together. These lines orplaces of connection of the two fabrics A B vary in configuration as thepatterns or general forms of the flounces or their embroidery require.For instance, the zigzag or sharp wavy embroidery-line of connection C',produced through the two fabrics A B,forms the line of connection of thefinished flounce C, the angular lines of embroidery D form the lines ofconnection of the 'iiounces D, the straight horizontal line ofembroidery E forms the main line of connection of the wide straightfiounce E, the rings of embroidery F form the lines of connection of thecircular ilounces F, and the concaved scalloped embroidery G forms theline of connection of the series of connected or larger scallopedflounces G. Opposite the line of connection C and next the line ofembroidery c the two fabrics A B are connected together, preferably by aline of embroidery Owhich, because of the conformation of the ounces D,also opposes the lines of connection D of said iiounces. About parallelwith the line of connection E', above mentioned, the two fabrics arealso connected or stitched together, and preferably by a line ofembroidery E2, which ranges along near the line of embroidery e andfaces the em-v broideryf of the circular patterns, and also faces theline of connection G of the complete fiounces G, and below thesefiounces or their edge embroidery g the two fabrics A B are alsoconnected,preferably by a line G2 of embroidery-stitches. An ornamentalflowerpattern e2 is also worked or embroidered through the two fabricsbetween the patterns e and the embroidered line of connection E of theiiounce E, and between the zigzag line of connection Cand the line ofembroidery c, and preferably within the angles or convolutions of saidconnection C small flower or other patterns c2 are worked through bothfabrics A B.

Figure l of the drawings shows all the em` broidery patterns or linesproduced simultaneously by a machine upon the main fabric A, while Fig.3, which is a back View, shows all the lines of connection of th'e twofabrics A B, which are made simultaneously in a inachine; hence theproduction of my embroideredA iionnced fabric requires two adjustmentsof it in embroidering-machines, and the second operation is that whichconnects the two materials of which the flouneed fabric is made.

To complete the fabric it is only necessary to cut away-or remove thefront material A between the lines of embroidery which form the freeedge of the fiounce and the adjacent line of connection of the twofabrics and between said lines of connection where they face each other.This is done preferably by using suitable scissors, which may beintroduced between the two fabrics A B at such places a. Fig. 2represents this fabric partly cut. away at the right-hand side, whilethe remaining removable part a at the left-hand side is slit off closelyto the free embroidered edges of the tucks and the lines of embroideryconnecting the two materials. This unremoved portion a of the front mainfabric A is represented by horizontal shading lines. Those end portionsb2 of the backing B which extend beyond the embroidered lines ofconnection C C2 of the flounced fabric are preferably cut away at theback of the fabric, and as will be understood from Fig. 3 of thedrawings, which shows the free ends b2 of the backing cut away at theright-hand and remaining at theleft-hand side of said figure.

From the aforesaid description it will appear that my improved flouncedfabric has a flounce, which is formed of a part of the main fabric, andis provided with an embroidered free edge, and that the flonnce is heldto the backing of the finished fabric by embroiderystitches formingtheir own complete smooth selvage or line of connection, which will notrip or fray out, and that the flounce may be embroidered at its facebetween its free edge and main line of connection and through one orboth pieces A B of material, and that the IOO IIO

backing B is not only the main support to the series of flounces, but itmaintains the length-- wise continuity of the whole fabric, which whenflounced has the same length the main fabric had before the flounceswere formed.

It will be particularly noticed that the flounce or flounces of thefinished fabric are formed of parts'of the front fabric occupying theiroriginal woven positions, or those facial positions relatively to theremaining or unfiounced part-s of the front fabric which they had whenthis fabric was first woven or produced. This feature alone makes theflounced fabric as an article of manufacture clearly distinguishablefrom ordinary fiounced fabrics, as ordinary observers, as well asexperts, will see that in my improved flounced fabric the warp and Woofthreads of all the flounces have the same direction as the warp and Woofthreads of the remaining unflounced portions of the main front fabric,however IIS irregular the marginal design of the fiounces may be, andthis clearly identifies the liounces as being formed of parts of thefront fabric occupying their original facial woven positions. It willalso be seen that all fiounces of like general form in an improvedfabric have almost absolute uniformity of design, however irregularmarginally this design may be, and the spacing of like flounces is ormay be absolutely regular or uniform. These two desirable features it isalmost impossible, or, at least, impracticable, with commercial success,to assure in either a hand or machine made flounced fabric having veryirregularlyshaped liounces separately formed and afterward attached to abacking or foundation piece; and, finally, my' improved fiounced fabricpresents a more symmetrical and smooth and more easily-laundered facethan would a fiounced fabric having flounces of like form, as in myfabric, but which have been separately or individually made andafterward attached to a backing or foundation fabric.

I specially mention the connection of the iiounce by embroidering thetwo pieces of material together at the place from which the flouncehangs or projects, as by this construction I produce a Very ornamentalfinished fabric at a triI'ling cost in comparison with the expenseattending the production of afabric of the same design by applying theflounces as separate pieces to the main fabric. For instance, it wouldbe very difficult and commercially impracticable with profit to formfiounces, like the ones C D F G, by using in. dependent pieces ofmaterial eut out to proper shape and turned in at the edges in zigzag,curved, or rounded lines, where they would be stitched to asupporting-fabric, and it would be quiteimpossible to secureregularlyspaced fiounces of precisely the same pattern, which isrequired to make a beautiful useful fabric of this class. I alsospecially state that a fiounced fabric in which the flounce is formed ofa part of the main fabric and is held to it or to the backing lby a lineof embroidery is a much more smoothly-finished fabric than one in whichthe fiounce is formed of a separate piece stitched to the main fabric,because in my fabric there never is a loose or free edge at theembroidered line of connection of the flounce, which forms its ownselvage; hence the fabric presents a perfectly-smooth an d beautifulfinish at the place from which the fiounce hangs or projects, and thisplace or line of connection may have any contour or direction within thecapacity of ferred'color, which will display to advantage the fancyopen-work-embroidery patterns z', which were first worked onto the frontor main fabric A. Between the line of connection H' of the lower tlounceI-I and another lower line of connection J2 of the two fabrics A B areproduced reversely-inclined rows of diagonal fiounces J J, which havefree edges jof embroidery, and hang or project from embroidered lines ofconnection J of the two fabrics or materials. The flower-patterns j onthe fiounces are first embroidered on the outer main fabric A, as arealso the patterns a2 at the upper and lower angles of the flounces, orbetween them and the lines of connection H J 2 of the two materials. Theflower-patterns a3 are embroidered through the two materials A B nextthe tops or connected edges of the flounces. I specially mention thisfiounced fabric made with two opposing fiounces, as H H, and twoembroidered lines of connection, as H2 H2, which may be straight orirregular, and which form a pocket to receive a ribbon to displayeffectively embroidered patterns worked only through the front materialforming the outer wall of the pocket.

When the finished flcunces are to have two or more thicknesses ofmaterial, two thicknesses, for instance, as 'shown in Fig. 7 of thedrawings, I connect an extra backing B directly to the main fabric A bya line of embroidery-stitches la, which forms the free edge of thedouble-thick flounce, and then I connect the main backing B at the backof the piece B and by two lines of embroiderystitches k k', passedthrough all the fabrics or materials, and the front materials A B', orall the fabrics except the back piece B, are then cut away at k2,between the first line of embroidery k and the adjacent line ofconnection ki of all the fabrics.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is-

l. As an improved article of manufacture, a flounced fabric comprising amain face or front fabric and a connected backing fabric and having oneor more flounces formed of parts of the front fabric occupying faciallytheir original woven positions relatively to the remaining portions'ofsaid front fabric, substantially as herein set forth.

2. As an improved article of manufacture, a fiounced fabric comprising amain face or front fabric and a connected backing fabric and having oneor more fiounces formed of parts of the front fabric occupying faciallytheir original woven positions relatively to the remaining portions ofsaid front fabric and provided with an embroidered free edge,substantially as herein set forth.

3. As an improved article of manufacture, a fiounced fabric comprising amain face or front fabric and a connected backing fabric and having oneor more fiounces formed of parts of the front fabric occupying faciallyIOO IIO

ISO

their original Woven positions relatively to the remaining' portions ofsaid front fabric and provided with an embroidered free edge and hangingor projecting from lines of embroidery connecting both fabrics,substantially as herein set forth.

LOUIS LOEB, JR.

Vitiiesses:

HENRY L. GOODWIN, C. SEDGWICK.

